Author: laurenne

  • Sorry. I couldn’t let it go unsaid.

    Dear Vietnam government,

    You suck.

    At first I thought you were pretty annoying when the hotels insisted they keep my passport and report to the government I had stayed there. But then I did some research and found that you suck even more than that.

    When you won the civil war in 1979, you leveled all citizens, making business owners and rich people hand over everything to the man. Ok, fine. I guess that is how communism works. But then you had no one to run those businesses you took because they had died in the war or they were still fighting with Cambodia. So you let everything go to hell, including food production and ration distribution. You basically kept people starving long after the war. That was pretty rude. But I guess everyone makes mistakes when they just take power. So, I will give you a pardon on the poverty and malnutrition. Fine.

    But the fact that you punished everyone who fought for the South was insane. Wasn’t losing enough for them? You had to torture and kill them even after the war was over? That’s just mean. You won’t even allow my friend who fought against you to get a passport now, twenty-five years later. Geez!

    The part that I really hate about you, Vietnamese government, is your blatant lying. I mean, you were fighting a civil war whether or not the Americans were there. Yet, you call it the “American War” and blame everything on us. I visited two museums that are wall after wall of you crying victim. Yes, we sprayed your fields with Agent Orange, and that was pretty lame of us. We couldn’t believe you were kicking our asses, so we had to do something. In hindsight we really regret it. But you can stop blaming every malady on us. The 2009 cases of down’s syndrome are not our fault. We have retarded babies as well without Agent Orange (although we do spray pesticides but that is not the point.).

    I also visited the prison where you tortured John McCain. You make it seem like you treated the Americans to years of basketball and happy endings. Ha! Liar, liar! McCain tried to commit suicide in there. I doubt it was due to losing some tough rounds of PIG. There are thousands of accounts of the Viet Cong raping and murdering and pillaging and destroying. So although you are communists and feel like you can write history and present your version to all the tourists who come through, I would like to point out that you acted just as badly as the Americans and the Southern Vietnamese. After all, IT WAS YOUR DAMN CIVIL WAR! And I am really sad the side we were helping lost. Many Americans didn’t understand why we were over there. It is hard to fathom why America always thinks it can jump on in and help the underdog when he’s so far from our home. But if we had to meddle, I am proud we chose the side we did. Because I see clearly who we were fighting. It was the evil “Socialist Republic of Vietnam”.

    You may bar me from ever entering your country again, and I am fine with that. Because I don’t hang out with mean governments anyway.

    Sorry for taking up so much of your time. I’ll let you get back to lying and controlling people.

    Sincerely,
    Laurenne M. Sala

  • I miss you. Sorta.

    Today marks three months of traveling. Three months without a job, a routine, high heels, or mashed potatoes. Tough, tough life.
    Actually, right about now I am feeling the first tinges of home-sickness, mostly in the form of weird cravings for stuffing and yellow mustard. In thinking about it…

    I miss peanut butter.
    But I don’t miss jelly.

    I miss the radio.
    But I don’t miss the news.

    I miss my mom.
    But I don’t miss phone calls.

    I miss my friends.
    But I don’t miss having plans.

    I miss working.
    But I don’t miss work.

    I miss cooking.
    But I don’t miss washing dishes.

    I miss my bed.
    But I don’t miss making it.

    I miss singing in the car.
    But I don’t miss driving.

    I miss betting on Top Chef.
    But I don’t miss TV.

    I miss paved roads.
    But I don’t miss traffic.

    I miss going unnoticed.
    But I don’t miss going unnoticed.

    I miss burritos.
    But I don’t miss Los Angeles.

    I miss my country.
    But not that much.

  • Yes, weasel poo!

    Some quick observations from my month in Nam :

    Their money is called ‘dong’. I am less mature than I thought because I giggled like Beavis every time someone told me a price.

    They pirate everything. You cannot buy a legitimate book or DVD in the country. In fact, I bought a photocopied book, and I reached a page where an ant had fallen asleep on the copier.

    They can carry anything with a pole and 2 baskets.

    They always eat ‘family style’ with a big pile of rice in the middle.


    Harvesting rice is considered a woman’s job. So, if you are eating rice in Vietnam, it was most likely planted, harvested, cleaned, and dried by a woman.

    I am taller than everyone in the country.

    They are very direct, grabbing your hand and asking how much you paid for your ring. They ask your age, marriage status, etc within the first moment of meeting.

    When they write their names, the surname goes first. It gets confusing.

    They eat handfuls of sand crabs because they’re known to give you energy.

    For most Vietnamese, life is all about family. If a girl marries an ugly, fat, pimply old Western guy who has money, it’s sort of a show of love for the family. Many Westerners are surprised to see the family move on in once they get hitched.
    Unfortunately, it is also often common practice for men to beat women. The women dare not say anything because ruining the marriage means putting the family’s security in jeopardy. (This is in more traditional cases, and I am sure women are beginning to stick up for themselves.)

    They do not require glitz or glamour. With an old stool and a crate, they can have a sidewalk restaurant running in no time.

    Their language is most complicated. Since they use 6 series of tones, each word has six meanings depending on how you say it.’Ma’ can mean ‘phantom’, ‘but’, ‘mother’, ‘rice seedling’, ‘tomb’, or ‘horse.’ This way, words are very simple and never more than one syllable.

    Although Western culture has crept in to many parts of Vietnam, it seemed to me that traditional Vietnamese culture was still standing strong. People still wear pajamas all day, like they would in rural villages. They still prefer to eat noodle soup from the back of a truck than join the tourists at the KFC. They still live with the whole family.

    You can get most things on the street. There are traveling candy shops, restaurants, bars, tailors, hairdressers, produce markets, etc. It’s really amazing how everything comes to you. If you are patient enough, whatever you crave will land at your feet (Perhaps a lesson for life?).

    The majority of Vietnamese follow Tam Giao Buddhism. It is quite superstitious. In fact, so much of their lives revolve around luck. They believe they must always honor their ancestors by sacrificing certain luxuries to the altar. They believe you must bury your relatives with money so that they will be able to pay for things in the afterlife. A guy I met here won’t pose for photos with 2 other people (the number 3!) for fear of bad luck.

    The women here are OBSESSED with being white. They go to great lengths to ensure their skin stays milky, since dark skin is a sign of fieldwork. Many women wear winter clothes in the sweltering heat so that there is no chance of tan. They always cover their faces with masks and most usually wear prom-type gloves that cover from finger to shoulder.

    My name means tool repair shop. Cool! I love tools.

    The coffee is superb. It is strong and rich. And served with a layer of sweet condensed milk at the bottom. Unfortunately, the best beans have been fed to weasels and taken from their poop. Not sure who thought of that one.

  • Help! Vietnam is in a nutshell!

    Nam is a long narrow country, almost the shape of an ‘S’. I guess it is an ‘S’ written by a quill pen dipped in too much ink. I arrived on the top, near China, and made my way along the curves by bus. Here is a run-down of the cities and what happened where:

    HA NOI
    Vietnam’s capital and home of the beloved Ho Chi Minh. He was the communist leader who helped lead North Vietnam to victory. I’m not sure if people like him, but it’s actually required by the government, so they all say they do. Citizens come from near and far to see Ho Chi Minh and bring him offerings. Although he’s been dead since 1969, his body has been stuffed and put on display. It’s weird. I mean, it’s a dead body. Not the typical tourist attraction. (“Hey Phil, let’s go see the temple, then we’ll lounge in some beach chairs, and end with the viewing of a cold corpse! How about it?”)

    This was my least favorite city in Vietnam. I guess if I would have been around in the 70’s, I would have fought for the south.

    Two Chihuahuas for sale at a market near Hanoi. It’s believed dogs are good luck if eaten near the end of the month.

    HALONG BAY
    A contender for the title of 8th wonder of the world, it’s definitely a mind-boggling place. Thousands of tiny islands sprinkled around one bay makes you wonder how they got there. But the amount of kitchy tourist boats, pollution in the water, and desperate women rowing up to each porthole to sell you a bag of Oreos is not my idea of a place to sit and wonder. However, the quality of tourist on my kitchy boat was superb. And the best part: monkeys!

    HUE
    This city is one many touists skip, so I loved it. Especially with the German and the Greeks. We took it upon ourselves to find the Vinh Moc tunnels, a 3-story underground shelter that housed up to 60 families during the war. Imagine not seeing the sun for 6 years. My tan would be, like, totally non-existent. 17 babies were born here, in the hospital wing, which is just another tunnel. My grandma always bragged about being born on a kitchen table. But I’m gonna say tunnel babies make for a better story.

    Imagine being stuck in this hole for 6 years.

    Hue (pronounced ‘hway’) is also the place where a Buddhist monk told my fortune. According to him, I will have a daughter with one man and two boys with another, which means I will either be divorced, widowed, or have an illegitimate baby. With all that unprotected sex lately, I‘m probably pregnant now. No wonder I’ve been craving cement tacos.

    HOI AN
    My favoritist place in Vietnam. I think I will retire here. It’s a French colonial town chock full of buzzing markets, glowing lanterns, and flaky pastries. I rented a bicycle and followed the river to the beach, passing lush palm trees and bobbing fishing boats all the way. I could not help repeating, “This is the life…This is the life.” Until a fisherman asked me to please be quiet.

    The specialty of this town is tailor-made clothing. I had 2 formal dresses made specifically for my body, each only $20. It took all my strength to NOT order a pair of knee-high boots made of soft brown leather, specially crafted to my oddly-shaped dogs. They were $32! But I refrained, as I am trying to rough it. Man, it really took all I had.

    This is the view from my favorite cafe. I ate about 40 croissants while in Hoi An.

    NHA TRANG
    This is the Cancun of Vietnam. I only stayed 2 nights since I am American and have lived through several spring breaks already. I think I’ve been drunk enough times in my life to never have to be drunk again. Perhaps the next time I get drunk will be on my wedding day. Out of necessity.

    You might have heard it on the news. I was crowned Queen of the Ocean!

    DA LAT
    This is the mountain town of Vietnam, where the climate is best for growing coffee, wine, and Gerber daisies. The atmosphere here was so relaxed, nobody tugging your sleeve to spend money. I felt safe and comfortable. And cold. Unfortunately, my blind aunt wouldn’t even wear the ugly “hand-made” sweaters sold on each corner. I know I am trying to rough it and all, but I ain’t wearing knitted ruffles. They sell hot drinks out of carts in the markets, and I tried one made of sugar, green beans, and soy milk. Not bad!


    Dalat is also the barrio of adventure sports, so it is here where I went canyoning (or scaling waterfalls). I also signed up for a mountain bike tour, which taught me tons about the lives of local people. I rode 94 kilometers in one day through villages and valleys, and I have to say I rather liked it. I saw each hill as a mental challenge. The downhills were better though.

    We stopped at a silk factory. I had no idea silk was made from silkworms. Doy! These are a bunch of cocoons. After they spin the silk, they eat the worms.

    SAI GON
    I am pretty sure Ho Chi Minh City is just a name given to appease the Communist government, as most people still call it Saigon. This is the most modern of cities in the country; big malls, supermarkets, and Coffee Beans linger among the traditional markets, street vendors, and throngs of motorbikes. The city is full of odd junxtapositionings: I ate a gourmet cheese sandwich from a posh supermarket reminiscent of Whole Foods while toothless old women sold hard-boiled eggs and stinky dried fish from straw baskets right in front.

    I would have loved to explore the city more, but the fumes really did a number on my stomach. I couldn’t breathe without wishing my stomach would shrivel up and fall out of me. So, I did a lot of reading in the fetal position. I recommend these 2 books for a local view on the war and on Vietnamese customs: “The Girl in the Photo” by Denise Chong & “When Heaven and Earth Changed Places” by Le Ly Hayslip.

    This is a local tailor. I am guessing the finished clothes don’t come on a hanger and in a plastic bag.

    Overall, a month in Vietnam was not enough. I did not get to explore the Mekong Delta like I’d planned. But when it came time to either renew my visa or jet, I chose to skedaddle. The place is beautiful and interesting, but having to watch your back gets old quick. Peace out, Nam!

  • Not Hugh again.


    The first night in Vietnam, I watched ‘Music & Lyrics,’ ‘Dreamgirls,’ and ‘Knocked Up.’ Yes, in a row. From my sagging hotel bed. Utterly pathetic, I know. But I was hiding from the bustling streets and, honestly, the Vietnamese. They rolled their eyes when I walked into their shops, they cut and pushed in line, they badgered me incessantly about prices, and they would not let me get away peacefully without making a purchase even if I wasn’t hungry and had no interest in their sliced mango. I couldn’t hang and instead forced myself to watch Hugh Grant again play another stutteringly sappy role.

    Before long, I got used to the Vietnamese culture and realized that being in Vietnam is like hanging out with your fun new stepmom whose first three husbands happened to have died mysteriously. You really like her because she is interesting and different and likes to go bowling. Yet you sort of get the feeling she might stuff a pillow over your face while you‘re asleep. That is Vietnam: a country who offers its landscapes, beaches and friendly smiles but will come in the night and force you to give it all your money.

    I was sad when I finally made that realization. But no matter how hard you try to erase the divide, it is relentless. And there will always be tourists vs. locals, white vs. dark, those with dining rooms vs. those who eat off the floor. It’s an uncomfortable feeling, always being the prey, the walking ATM. But it’s understandable.

    Perhaps it stems from the several wars that Vietnam has perilously fought throughout the last few decades: first the Chinese, then the French, then America, then Cambodia. These probably taught the Vietnamese never to trust a foreigner, especially the white ones who raped a lot of women or, in the case of Americans, had no problem popularizing prostitution or stealing Vietnamese daughters away to the US. Plus, the culture here is very family and ancestral based. It has always been sort of Communist in that sense, taking a job for the good of the family and sacrificing for them as well. Sticking together. Shunning outsiders.

    With this being the case, tourists have no chance of making local friends over here. It’s all about money. And when I finally gave myself over to such a sad realization, I began to have fun. And I became a pro at bargaining. In fact, I am wearing an entire outfit at the moment for which I paid only $8. Started at $16. Who’s ripping off who now, bitches?