Category: cafes

  • Berets: true! Body odor: false!


    Stereotypes. They’re little bastards. They creep around inside your mind waiting…. just waiting for the exact moment, the moment you’re in a bar and a guy wearing a ZBT fraternity hat approaches. That’s when they run berzerk inside your head and scream so loudly that your regular thoughts don’t have a chance.

    “He’s a fraternity loser,” one yells. “He probably still sleeps in a bunk bed. He only drinks beer upside down from a keg. He tries to convince girls not to wear condoms. His room is lit by blacklight. He still gets an allowance from his parents.”

    You don’t realize it, but you listen! Then you tell the ZBT enthusiast that you’re just not interested. And the guy walks away, itching under the cap he borrowed from a friend because he got a bad haircut. He doesn’t even know what ZBT is. He went to Cambridge.

    But the stereotypes rejoice. Wahoo!!! Some retreat to celebrate while others stay vigilant, waiting for a Mexican guy wearing black to walk behind you on the street at 3 am.

    The only antidote to these fuckers is awareness. Once you hear them jostling around inside, you must make an effort to quiet them. Not a physical effort because this is all just a metaphor and you would look ridiculous.

    The point is, I knew all about these bitches and was aware they’d be trying to take me down in France. Everyone had given them ammunition: “The French are so rude….They stink….They won’t help you unless you speak French.”

    So I crept into France fully alert. To my surprise, I found that many of the stereotypes were true! Fortunately, none of the negative ones. I only found perfectly perfumed citizens who dropped everything to point me in the right directions. Most were the opposite of rude.

    But the visuals fit flawlessly into the molds in my head: There are hand-crafted cheeses and tiny glasses of Bordeaux served in cute little cafes on every corner. Old men walk through cobblestone corridors with baguettes. Some even ride bicycles and carry the loaves in their front baskets! The croissants are these achingly crispy puffs of puff. The bakeries waft the sweet smell of fruit tarts, and the women at their registers sing out ‘Merci” every few minutes. Exquisitely fashionable men talk art as they sip café-au-laits with their friends. Shop windows are wonderfully crafted fashion editorials. Little kids wear tiny trench coats and say in tiny voices, ‘Mama! S’il vous plait.” And the best, the most wonderfully Parisian element which I thought existed in only the minds of stereotypes: the beret. It’s alive and well and sits atop heads of women and children, and of course– painters! France is exactly as splendid as I’d imagined.

    When you’re in a foreign land, your ear picks up English like a trained hound. So, inevitably, I did hear some Americans talking.
    “What’s the best part of your France trip?”
    “Meeting other Americans who aren’t as rude as the French.”
    Eruption of laughter.

    Those people let the stereotypes have their way with them. What a shame. How amazing it is when you stop listening to those jerky voices and experience what is really in front of you.

    Bordeaux! At noon! Cheaper than water.

    Maybe it works for the French, but it made us both look like my uncle Edmond.

    A beret-clad street artist! How wonderf— waaait a minute. He’s flipping me off. Maybe the French are rude.
  • Yo hablo spanglish. So que.


    Despues de años y años de practice and after many many novios argentinos, me he dado cuenta de que my spanish will never be perfect. Voy a siempre hablar Spanglish. Y that’s okay.

    So, here’s a story in my preferred language:

    En 1936 hubo una guerra civil en Spain. My grandfather y su familia were forced to leave el país secretly in the middle of the noche. Mi bisabuela llevó unas joyas en su boca para venderlas mas tarde. La familia walked desde Barcelona hasta Italia! Pues, eso dice mi abuela.

    They stayed in a resort converted for refugees. Allá mi abuelo, con 16 años, descubrió su talento and passion for playing cards, especially poker. Jugó muchisimo! Y ganó muchisimo! Contra hombres mucho older than he. He didn’t say a word to his parents about his winnings.

    One day they told him he would be better off in NYC donde le esperaba un amigo de su padre. And so, con solo el traje que llevaba puesto, mi abuelo boarded a ship bound for America. Antes de marcharse, he gave a sus padres todo el dinero que habia ganado! Of course my great grandmother cried. Que dulce!

    Mi abuelo llegó a los EEUU, learned English, joined the army, and married una Boricua. Nació mi padre. Y then my aunt. This new family moved back to Spain for a while, but decidieron que Chicago era mejor para ellos. Muchos años despues, I was born. Y aqui estamos.

    Cada vez que estoy en Barcelona, I like to imagine my grandfather in the streets as a boy. Before the war, su familia tuvo una tienda de typewriters en la calle Jose Antonio. Franco changed the names of many streets, but I found un taxista bien bien viejo y he remembered la calle from before the war. Me llevó a la tienda! Now it is a boutique hotel. But I stood in front studying the sidewalk, wondering how many times my grandfather had waited in that exact spot.

    Esta vez en Barcelona, I looked for small cafés y restaurantes establecidos antes de 1936. I found two! En los dos pedi churros y chocolate. I was sure my grandfather had probably ordered the same. Y me los comi parada en la barra because that’s how my grandfather would have done it. Es deliciosa la comida española pero es una delicia mexclar la historia con la imaginación.