Category: Rishikesh

  • Day 7: I accidentally buy drugs.

    I leave hippie town for the Himalayas. At the bus stop, a man begins the normal questioning.

    “From which country are you?”
    “USA”
    “Which place?”
    “Chicago.”
    “Oh. Lots of blacks there.”
    “Yes, there are lots of blacks, Indians, whites, Asians…”
    “Black people love cock.”
    “Excuse me?”
    “Yes, In Mumbai, it’s only the blacks with cock. Lot’s of cock.”
    “Well, that is the stereotype, I guess.”
    “Yes, I know all about cock. Used to be in that business.”
    “Oh. Are you maybe talking about caulk? Like for construction?”
    “You know, caulk?”
    “Yeah. It‘s white, right?”
    “I got out of that business fast.”
    “You were in construction?”
    “600 ruppees a gram. How much is it in US?”
    “Oh! Are you talking about coke? Like, cocaine?”
    “Yes.”
    “Oh.”


    THOUGHTS: I love India.

  • Day 6: Who really needs the whole 500ml?

    I decide to upgrade hotels and give myself more comfort. I really need to sleep, so I splurge for a room with a TV in hopes that the BBC will lull me to slumber. 2 hours after check-in:

    “Sir, this TV isn’t working.”
    “Oh I know.”
    “Ok, well can you fix it?”
    “No, ma’am. That TV is only in your room for storage. We didn’t have anywhere else to put it.”


    A few hours later, I order a soda water to my room.
    A boy brings me a bottle half-full (that’s right, I’m a positive girl.)

    “But it’s half full?”
    “Oh, did you want a full one?”


    THOUGHTS: I’m starting to like India. I mean, where else would this stuff happen?

  • Day 5: I develop new passion to teach Indians how to aim.

    I sweat through the sheets all night convinced I have Swine flu.

    At 8am, I get a frantic knock on my door. For a second I think it’s my fiance from day 1 coming to apologize and whisk me to his village which doesn’t have water but is surprisingly stocked with popsicles, antibiotics, and air conditioning.

    From my bed, I open the door.

    It’s an older Indian woman with a gray braid and an elaborate saree.

    “Bashal ladofjh ahdfkewp lkjp TOILET aslkjfd aoiuerh ndhfve,” she says.

    I figure she’s going to fix the toilet. Maybe I clogged it when I puked up the banana pancake.

    I wave her in and she locks herself in my bathroom.

    I hear a splushering of water.

    She nods on her way out. I fade back to delirious sleep.

    When I finally awake later, I enter the bathroom to find a smattering of poo. On the toilet seat. Dripping down the front of the bowl. And in the sink. Yes, in the sink, thanks to the old Asian I-don’t-need-toilet-paper-because-I-use-clean-water-and-my-hand technique.

    SICK!

    No, I am sick. I should be leaving poo trails, not some old lady who thinks she can hike up her saree and plop one out wherever she feels regardless of the positioning of the toilet.

    I thought to call the manager. But what would he do?

    “Hello, I swear this poo is not mine even though I am staying alone in this room and have been really sick and had to run away from your restaurant yesterday when my bodily fluids erupted from my mouth. It belongs to this old lady who has now disappeared. Anyway, can you clean it?”

    I clean up the old lady’s poo.

    I don’t sleep a wink that night because I catch a big roach under a cup, and I feel dirty because it saw me change clothes.

    THOUGHTS: Not only do I have to worry about sly swindlers, I have to worry about pesky pooers.

  • Day 4: That alien guy from Spaceballs is in my stomach.

    I become the sickest I have ever been in my whole life. Since it’s a hippie town, the only medicines in any pharmacy are herbal. Luckily I have a few days of emergency antibiotic.

    It pains me to imagine what could have made me sick.

    It might have been the fresh-squeezed street juice I drank anxiously before reading the warning about fresh-squeezed street juice in the guidebook.

    Or it could have been the Nescafe made with milk from any one of the cows I saw on the street eating matchbooks and condom wrappers.

    Whatever it was, it did me in good.

    THOUGHTS: Vomit, vomit. So, this is the India everyone warned me about. Vomit.

  • Day 3: Enlightenment thwarted by womanhood

    I make my way 9 hours north to Rishikesh. It’s a hippie’s paradise. You can learn yoga, renew your chakras, or get your aura inspected. It’s where the Beatles spent 9 months getting high with the Maharishi and writing the White Album. (the exact location of that Indian tryst is now home to beggars, stray cows, and strewn about trash..)

    I decide to get enlightened and begin knocking on doors of all the teachers in town. Turns out, it’s time for local Indians to make their yearly pilgrimage to the holy city. Hence, the foreigners leave. This means that all the teachers leave (sounded fishy to me too). I find one swami who is willing to show me the path to a higher level. Or something. He explains there will be 3 types of communication.

    1. First he will watch me do the yoga poses to see my body’s potential.

    2. Next he will communicate with me through touching.

    3. Then he will communicate with me just through thinking.

    BUT… he can only attempt such a feat if I am not menstruating.

    “After all,” he says. “I am a swami.”

    Where is he planning on touching me?, I think.

    THOUGHTS: It’s hot. I still do not trust anyone.